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BRIDGES: Everything I can think to mention about them
Recent News and Updates
Boom.
Adjustable Bridges Back in Stock!


Our long-running, time-tested adjustable bass bridges, which have been out of stock for some time, are finally back in stock! Ready to send out today, still with free shipping to all 50 states.
Double Bow Cases are FINALLY BACK!
At long last, we FINALLY have received - and have, IN STOCK - double bow cases. Our NEW double bow case features separate compartments and hook-and-loop holding straps for each bow to keep them from contacting each other. Unlike some double bass bow cases, this case can hold any combination of two French or German bows; two French, two German, or one of each.

Check out the details on our bow case page - we have a BUNCH of these cases IN STOCK for immediate shipment.
Audio Sprockets ToneDexter UPDATE Available
Not content to rest on the success of their amazing ToneDexter, Audio Sprockets has just released Version 1.5 of the operating software. The update makes training 33% faster, on top of the 1.4 update from August, which adds the ability to transfer WaveMaps in and out of ToneDexter, plus improvements to the Bass EQ and the built-in tuner!

Visit the ToneDexter Product Page for more information!

And of course, all ToneDexters purchased at Gollihur Music HAVE BEEN PRELOADED with the MOST RECENT BASS FIRMWARE (unless otherwise requested.)


Recently Added Products
Bass Bomb - Feedback Fighting Resonance Reducer
Bass Bomb - Feedback Fighting Resonance Reducer
Feedback issues? This thing is da bomb. It'll solve ALL of your feedback problems. Okay, maybe not. But it's absolutely adorable, and might help a bit. And it's good for finger warmups, too.
Novelty Street Sign - Doublebass Place
Novelty Street Sign - Doublebass Place
Need some decor for your music room? Our aluminum "Doublebass Place" street sign is full sized (24" x 6") and can be used indoors or out.
Radial Engineering Tonebone AC Driver 1 Channel Preamplifier
Radial Engineering Tonebone AC Driver 1 Channel Preamplifier
Like to 'KISS' (Keep It Simple, Stupid)? This preamp just has the most crucial features in a small, portable box that is quiet, beautifully engineered, and practically bulletproof...
Note: If I waited until I thought I'd answered every question here, this page would never be posted. So here are my comments so far, in no particular order:

Where should the bridge be located on my bass?

There are two cuts in each f-hole; your bridge's feet should be centered on the two inside cuts. Your bass is designed for that placement; I know some folks move it up or down from that position to adjust string height, but moving it away from the correct position is not a good idea for a variety of reasons, and it could "test" your instrument's structural integrity. The bridge should also be centered on the body, assuming your bass is symmetrical- if it isn't, that's another issue.

Can I buy a new (adjustable or regular) bridge to fit my bass?

No. New bridges do not come in pre-cut sizes to fit each instrument, as basses differ from one another. You will find all replacement bridges to be taller than your current bridge -- they always need to be cut, trimmed, and shaped to fit. Neck angles as well as other construction details results in different bridge heights and widths. The key issue for choosing a replacement bridge is the width of the feet (see next item for details).

How do I choose the right size bridge?

Look or feel inside your bass through the E string f-hole, and you will see the bass bar, a long piece of wood glued to the inside of the bass top. If you measure from the middle of the bar to the mid-point of the bass and double the measurement, you now know the correct measurement of the bridge's feet when measured from center to center to fit your bass. Choose a replacement bridge in that range (most basses are 3/4 size, with bridge feet four inches apart when measured from center to center). Height shouldn't be an issue as most bridge blanks are much higher than needed.

These are the measurements (approximate) of the bridges I sell from bridge feet center to center:

3/4 size:
4 inches
1/4 size:
3 3/4 inches
1/2 size:
3 7/8 inches
7/8-4/4 size:
4 3/4 inches

Fit: How well should the feet fit?

The bridge feet should be perfectly shaped to match the top of the bass, for maximum sound transfer. There are tricks to do this; email me if you'd like to take a look at the installation instructions I've written, which include some of these "tricks of the trade."
There are bridges with feet that swivel, but I don't carry those types of bridges. Even though the feet on those bridges have the ability to swivel, most of the time they still do not fit the top perfectly; they still require fitting for the best results. That fit is a critical ingedient in acheiving the best sound from your bass. The top part also still needs to be cut and shaped on that type of bridge, so given the work you still have to do, IMHO it's hardly worth the much higher cost for the fancy swivel-foot bridges.

Do I need an adjustable bridge?

There are many reasons for installing an adjustable bridge; here are some of them:

Carved basses generally move with the seasons, and adjusters allow the player to keep a consistent string height as the bass expands or shrinks.

Whether carved or laminated, some players prefer different action for differing styles. Adjusters allow you to make those changes for an amplified modern jazz gig on Friday night and an acoustic bluegrass jam on Sunday.

Some laminated basses also move a little, but regardless, sometimes it's good to be able to make minute adjustments to "fine tune" the bass to your preference. With a solid bridge, unless you're ready to break out the tools, whatever height to which the bridge is cut is the way it is.

Okay, but will bridge adjusters affect the sound of my bass?

Possibly, everything does, but by how much?? The effect of adjusters on tone is very often overstated, usually by people who have a "purist" view of what an instrument should be. And it's fine for everyone to have an opinion, but it's better if the opinion you form is based upon reality. There is a link to a site (on my Double Bass Links Page) with a scientific study of the affects of adjusters of various materials, using specialized audio equipment. The sophisticated gear could differentiate between fixed and adjustables, as well as different adjuster materials (like aluminum, brass, delrin, etc.) but I think you'll find a huge number of bassists have chosen to use adjustable bridges, as these differences are quite subtle - if not undetectable - to the naked ear. Quality of wood, and how well the bridge is contoured and fitted are two far more important variables in quality of sound, for sure. A true "on-bass" test is near impossible, as you'd need to equalize those variables and be able to A-B fairly once the bridge was properly fitted on the same instrument, with the same strings, in a "blind" comparison.

In my personal opinion and experience, a fellow player or luthier who is telling you that you can "hear" a difference between and adjustable bridge and a fixed one is probably basing that opinion on flawed experience - or they're "hearing with their eyes." I very happily use adjustable bridges on my own basses, and I certainly don't feel that I'm sacrificing anything significant in the way of sound -- if I did, they wouldn't be on there, and I would sell them with a caveat attached.

If you choose to disagree, though - that's fine as well; we sell both fixed and adjustable bridges.

Bridge height

You may not want to make your bridge too short and action too low at the bridge. Most players should leave enough height for good tone and room for string "bloom." If your bass is tough to play at the lower positions near the top of the fingerboard, it's the height of the nut (and depth of the "scoop" that should be in the face of the fingerboard) that may need addressing-- lowering the bridge a little won't have a significant effect on the action at the nut.

The top of the bridge -- string spacing and slots

The spacing of modern 3/4 size instruments varies from 7/8" to over one inch, and can be dependent on the fingerboard width and personal preference. One thing that should not be overruled is the depth of the indentations for the strings. That's right, indentations -- not slots! They should be no deeper than 1/2 the diameter of the string, enough to keep the string in place but not so deep as to "pinch" the string, which can interfere with tone. Too wide and you invite buzz. Round is a good shape, and it should be smooth and tapered on both sides, where the string enters and leaves the bridge. Sharp edges and narrow slots can snag or choke the string and damage it, as well as grab the bridge and move it as you tune. Graphite (rub some onto the position using a soft lead pencil) lubricates the slot and helps keep things smooth.

Tips for maintaining a healthy bridge

Keep an eye on the attitude of the bridge; it should be perpendicular to the top of the bass. Over time, due to continued tuning along with the fact that no bassist can walk through a doorway three times without bumping into it at least once, bridges move. The usual result is a bridge leaning towards the fingerboard- not a good thing, as foot contact is important, and that lean may earn you a warped bridge. Readjust it as needed; loosening tension a little and applying a gentle karate chop (ouch, that hurt, maybe I'll be smart enough to use the spine of a book next time) at the top of the bridge to realign it is a good idea.




Products Related to This FAQ




The Fine Print:

The information contained herein is based on what's in my brain — and/or my observations and opinions from my personal experiences (and those of Bob, before me) — as of this moment today, and is subject to change. I'm sure that a great deal more information and detail could be added — but the intent of these writings is to present easily understood, quick FAQs, to address common questions and improve the reader's general knowledge.

What's written here is by no means any kind of authoritative absolute answer, for I am not the world's greatest authority on bass (not even close), or on much of anything else, for that matter. So, by all means, get a second opinion, and know that all the information provided here is for general informational purposes only. I am not providing professional advice; be aware that, where applicable, any information acted upon is at your own risk.

I simply and sincerely hope the information and opinions here are helpful to you on your quest for knowledge about the bass and related subjects... that's the point!

I welcome email with dissenting and additional viewpoints/information/updates that help improve my personal awareness and these content pages. If you have a question that you think belongs here, please let me know.
Mark