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WHEELS: Upright Bass Wheels
We now have volutes for Kay Basses!
I'm very pleased to announce that we've partnered with Roger at KayBass.com to stock the wooden volutes for Kay Basses
(both pre- and post-1952 models). We add these two new offerings to the Engelhardt models we have had for many years. Now in stock, and shipping free to all 50 states.
New Fishman Platinum Pro-EQ in stock!
This is more than just a pretty new case. The new Platinum Pro EQ Analog Preamplifier
replaces both the original Pro EQ Platinum Bass and the Pro EQ Platinum. It combines the handy features they already had (DI, Optical Compressor, Phase Control, more) and ADDS some great new tools as well - like an Onboard Digital Tuner, Notch Filter, Low Cut Filter, Effects Loop, and a Footswitchable Boost (with level), among others. It has a switch on the top to adjust the EQ mode for either Bass or non-bass instruments (like acoustic guitar, uke, mandolin, etc.) so you have one preamp that can serve multiple situations. If you liked the old Pro-EQ Platinum models, you'll LOVE the new one
Lenzner Gut Strings IN STOCK
Due to a materials shortage, our German-made Lenzner gut strings
were a little tough to get a hold of for a couple weeks there. But I'm happy to say that we've just gotten a MASSIVE shipment from Germany and we have every gut string IN STOCK - even low B and high C strings! Brand new, fresh gut strings are ready to be packed up and sent right out!
NS Design CR4 SPECIAL PRICING!
The NS Design CR4 Bass
is a very nice electric upright bass that is crafted in Europe. They don't come cheap - but here's a stellar opportunity to get one at a big discount. If you have been holding out - or considering buying the NXT (the budget version of this bass) - you may want to jump on this deal
while it lasts.
New Version of our Popular Gig Bag - IN STOCK
Our previous model gig bag was a useful carry case for small amps, cables, preamps, and other miscellanea - our newest version
is slightly larger, includes some handy new features, and has a new, lower-profile "BASS" logo for a classier appeal.
There are wheels available (we sell 'em, too) that can be inserted into the bottom of your bass. They're great - I have when I have to cover long distances between car and gig and then arrive all sweaty and too worn out to play!
You simply remove the endpin shaft (ok, sometimes it's not "simply" -- some endpins have a crossbar or other mechanism on the inside of the endpin that prevents it from falling out. In that case, you just shove the endpin into the bass, retrieve it from a f-hole, and remove or grind off whatever is preventing its removal.) and slide the wheel's shaft in. Good wheels have a flat side on the shaft that you can adjust to the right angle, that way you can use the set screw position to keep the wheel heading in the right direction.
It's important to choose the correct shaft size, so you'll probably have to measure the bass' endpin shaft. The most common size is 10mm (about 3/8 inch), followed by 8mm. Kays and Engelhardts with original endpins (all steel, both shaft and the receiver) are 1/2 inch; that size is typically only found on those brands, and keep in mind that some folks remove and replace those endpin mechanisms. If you don't have a caliper, micrometer, or other device to measure the shaft, there are ways to get around that. Get a piece of stiff cardstock or cardboard, and cut a notch in it. Continue to slightly widen that slot until the endpin fits perfectly - then measure the gap with a conventional ruler. Do the measurement with both inches and millimeters; as you can see, shafts are available in both metric and SAE (inches) sizes, and some of the sizes are very close.
Consider the bass and wheel you use; they are designed for use on relatively flat surfaces - but how much "give" there is in the wheel as well as the fragility of the bass still has to be considered. I use one of the less expensive wheels with my Kay because it is a laminated instrument, and while the wheel has some softness to absorb shock, the bass can take the vibration. My carved Juzek is more fragile and would call for the Gaines' pneumatic wheel, as it offers more shock absorption. Regardless, it's usually best to lift your instrument over rougher surfaces that might transmit too much shock.
I like aligning my wheel so my bass rolls sideways-- I lean the bass shoulder into my right shoulder, reach over to grab the case handle or upper bout, and roll forward. You'll get the hang of steering in no time (people usually get out of the way when they see it coming, so who cares?).
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The Fine Print:
The information contained herein is based on what's in my brain and/or my opinions as of
today and is subject to change. Like any topic, a great deal more information could be added—but
the intent of these writings is to present easy to understand, quick FAQs, to address common questions
and improve the reader's general knowledge. What's written here is by no means the authoritative absolute
answer, I am not the world's greatest authority on bass (not even close), or on anything else for that
matter. I hope the information and opinions here are helpful to you, that's the point!
I welcome email with dissenting and additional viewpoints that help improve my personal awareness and the
content pages. If you have a question that you think belongs here, please let me know