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WHEELS: Upright Bass Wheels
Recent News and Updates
Today is MLK Day...
Today is a federal holiday celebrating the life and achievements of Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. in the United States. All US Post Offices are closed today in recognition of this holiday, so orders processed and "shipped" in our system today will be packed and labeled, but will not actually be physically shipped until tomorrow. UPS is still operating today, so larger items that go by UPS will ship as normal.
Traditional NXTs IN STOCK
Get yours now!
This is an amazing value -- for our upright bass-playing friends who want an EUB that can "sub" for the big bass, we've done all the upgrades for you -- and even put a custom "traditional" finish on the bass.

You get all the modern ergonomics and portability of the NS Design Electric Uprights, but with the Traditional string set for a more authentic doublebass sound (and bowability). We've also had NS Design upgrade the tuners to the CR-spec Schallers. And the cool traditional brown finish, over the veneer, looks classy and traditional -- and we even include a set of f-hole decals you can optionally install on the bass.

The four-string is the NEW NXTa "active" model, with the built-in flash-rechargeable buffer circuit. We have a limited number of 5-strings left in the original passive design, and those are the last of the traditional 5-strings.

You can't get this exclusive model anywhere else, folks.

Read more!
McNutt Bass Cradles IN STOCK
The McNutt Bass Cradle is a super Low-Profile Bass Stand that holds your bass securely, at an angle, for easy access. Stable, and surprisingly lightweight, it's portable enough for gigging (it comes with a shoulder bag) and works nice at home, too! Great in a show pit for quick switches between electric and upright, too! Now IN STOCK for immediate shipment.

Recently Added Products
Genzler Bass Array Magellan 350/BA 10 1x10 Small Combo
Genzler Bass Array Magellan 350/BA 10 1x10 Small Combo
The wizard who brought you those great sounding amps (with a similar name) is back! This small combo has the flexibility, hi-fi transparent sound, and great design -- in a portable package -- that you would expect from Jeff Genzler...
• 15.5”W x 15”D x 16”H, 25 Lbs • 175w (350 w/added cab) and 1x10 speaker with array
Headway EDB-2 Dual Channel Blending Preamp with Mic Input
Headway EDB-2 Dual Channel Blending Preamp with Mic Input
This versatile 2-channel preamp can handle two pickups, or a pickup and a mic, with ease, with extensive EQ, notch filter, DI, phantom power, switchable impedance, and much more.
Humi-Doctor - Miniature Humidity/Temp monitor
Humi-Doctor - Miniature Humidity/Temp monitor
You've got to keep your bass in a safe environment to protect it from issues, like popped seams, cracks, and other issues. Check the temperature and humidity level where your bass is quickly and easily with this no-fuss little guy. Clip to the bridge, or use the included velcro to mount on a stand or in your case...
There are wheels available (we sell 'em, too) that can be inserted into the bottom of your bass. They're great - I have certainly appreciated having one when I had to cover long distances between car and gig.

Installing:
You simply remove the endpin shaft (ok, sometimes it's not "simply" -- some endpins have a crossbar or other mechanism on the inside of the endpin that prevents it from falling out. In that case, you just shove the endpin into the bass, retrieve it from a f-hole, and remove or grind off whatever is preventing its removal.) and slide the wheel's shaft in. Good wheels have a flat side on the shaft that you can orient towards the thumbscrew, so you can use it to keep the wheel locked into the right direction.

Choosing:
It's important to choose the correct shaft size, so you'll probably have to measure the bass' endpin shaft. The most common size is 10mm (about 3/8 inch), followed by 8mm. Kays and Engelhardts with original endpins (all steel, both shaft and the receiver) are 1/2 inch; that size is typically only found on those brands, and keep in mind that some folks remove and replace those endpin mechanisms.

If you don't have a caliper, micrometer, or other device to measure the shaft, there are ways to get around that. My personal favorite is to go out to the garage and grab a few open-ended box wrenches (both SAE and Metric) - find the one that fits around the shaft the most perfectly, and read the size right off the wrench. No mechanic in the family? Get a piece of stiff cardstock or cardboard, and cut a notch in it. Continue to slightly widen that slot until the endpin fits perfectly - then measure the gap with a conventional ruler. Do the measurement with both inches and millimeters; as you can see, shafts are available in both metric and SAE (inches) sizes, and some of the sizes are very close.

Consider the bass and wheel you use; they are designed for use on relatively flat surfaces - but how much "give" there is in the wheel as well as the fragility of the bass still has to be considered. I use one of the less expensive wheels with my Kay because it is a laminated instrument, and while the wheel has some softness to absorb shock, the bass can take the vibration. My carved bass is more fragile and would call for the Gaines' pneumatic wheel, as it offers more shock absorption. Regardless, it's usually best to lift your instrument over rougher surfaces that might transmit too much shock. Please, don't jump the curb!

Using:
I like aligning my wheel so my bass rolls sideways-- I lean the bass shoulder into my right shoulder, reach over to grab the case handle or upper bout, and roll forward. You'll get the hang of steering in no time (people usually get out of the way when they see it coming, so who cares?)

Bass Wheel Alternatives:
There are some basses that cannot effectively use an endpin wheel. For instance, some endpins use a retainer thumbscrew that doesn't simply "jut against" the endpin, but rather tightens a collar around the entire endpin. Since this type does not press directly against the flat spot on the wheel's shaft, it cannot prevent the wheel from rotating. This is a bad thing; imagine walking at a good clip, and suddenly the wheel flips sideways. Not good. You might also have a non-removable endpin, or a solid wood non-adjustable one.

Don't worry, there is an option for you: The Bass Buggie (link below) is a small two-wheeled "cart" of sorts that quickly straps onto your bass and makes it as easy to "drive" as a hand-truck. It's one of my favorite products, and it solves most of those issues that make a bass wheel impractical or unusable.



Products Related to This FAQ




The Fine Print:

The information contained herein is based on what's in my brain — and/or my observations and opinions from my personal experiences (and those of Bob, before me) — as of this moment today, and is subject to change. I'm sure that a great deal more information and detail could be added — but the intent of these writings is to present easily understood, quick FAQs, to address common questions and improve the reader's general knowledge.

What's written here is by no means any kind of authoritative absolute answer, for I am not the world's greatest authority on bass (not even close), or on much of anything else, for that matter. So, by all means, get a second opinion, and know that all the information provided here is for general informational purposes only. I am not providing professional advice; be aware that, where applicable, any information acted upon is at your own risk.

I simply and sincerely hope the information and opinions here are helpful to you on your quest for knowledge about the bass and related subjects... that's the point!

I welcome email with dissenting and additional viewpoints/information/updates that help improve my personal awareness and these content pages. If you have a question that you think belongs here, please let me know.
Mark