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WHEELS: Upright Bass Wheels
Recent News and Updates
NS Design 4 String Omni Basses at HUGE Discount
We've just received a small number of the 4-string CR-model Omni Basses, and can sell them at a fabulous price -- and we're even throwing in a FREE BRAZILWOOD CELLO BOW (the cello bow actually works really well on the smaller scale and string width of the Omni Bass).

This is NOT the NXT -- it's the deluxe model, with the piezo/magnetic dual-source pickup system, onboard preamp with EQ, blend, and polar mode knobs, the Boomerang Strap, Deluxe gig bag... and the basses are BRAND NEW IN BOX, A-Stock basses - no cosmetic issues, no electronic problems. Brand new first-quality basses, just at a killer discounted price that's so low, I'm not allowed to publish it on the site (you can add it to your cart to see).

Check it out - and maybe get one - now!
INNOVATION IS BACK!
After a short hiatus for reasons beyond their control, Innovation Strings is back in production and we're stocked up with all their sets again. They had to unexpectedly relocate their manufacturing facility, which meant that they were out of production for a few months. But they're back up and running! Order away, we have them in stock and they're continuing on...

Recently Added Products
Adjusters for Upright Bass Bridges (Assorted)
Adjusters for Upright Bass Bridges (Assorted)
Want to have the convenience of adjusters on your bass bridge? We have a few options for adjusters; aluminum one- and two-piece adjusters, as well as deluxe ebony (wood) adjusters. These are excellent quality adjusters that can be used to "convert" a fixed bridge to an adjustable, or upgrade an existing adjustable to better quality.
Bass Bow Hook for Music or Instrument Stand by K&M
Bass Bow Hook for Music or Instrument Stand by K&M
An upgrade to our plastic stand clip, this steel hook holds your bow about 4.5" out from a music stand OR instrument stand - even a stool leg. Keep your bows safe, people...
Carbon Fiber ARTIST Double Bass Bow
Carbon Fiber ARTIST Double Bass Bow
I held off getting a mid-range carbon fiber bow for a long time; I was waiting for the quality to go up (and the prices to come down.) Now, I've found this wonderful bow, which is quite well-appointed, nicely balanced, and very finely haired. With a warm brown color and woven carbon fiber finish, it's traditional meets high-tech - and with a comfortable, familiar feel, you can get right to work with it.
There are wheels available (we sell 'em, too) that can be inserted into the bottom of your bass. They're great - I have certainly appreciated having one when I had to cover long distances between car and gig.

Installing:
You simply remove the endpin shaft (ok, sometimes it's not "simply" -- some endpins have a crossbar or other mechanism on the inside of the endpin that prevents it from falling out. In that case, you just shove the endpin into the bass, retrieve it from a f-hole, and remove or grind off whatever is preventing its removal.) and slide the wheel's shaft in. Good wheels have a flat side on the shaft that you can orient towards the thumbscrew, so you can use it to keep the wheel locked into the right direction.

Choosing:
It's important to choose the correct shaft size, so you'll probably have to measure the bass' endpin shaft. The most common size is 10mm (about 3/8 inch), followed by 8mm. Kays and Engelhardts with original endpins (all steel, both shaft and the receiver) are 1/2 inch; that size is typically only found on those brands, and keep in mind that some folks remove and replace those endpin mechanisms.

If you don't have a caliper, micrometer, or other device to measure the shaft, there are ways to get around that. My personal favorite is to go out to the garage and grab a few open-ended box wrenches (both SAE and Metric) - find the one that fits around the shaft the most perfectly, and read the size right off the wrench. No mechanic in the family? Get a piece of stiff cardstock or cardboard, and cut a notch in it. Continue to slightly widen that slot until the endpin fits perfectly - then measure the gap with a conventional ruler. Do the measurement with both inches and millimeters; as you can see, shafts are available in both metric and SAE (inches) sizes, and some of the sizes are very close.

Consider the bass and wheel you use; they are designed for use on relatively flat surfaces - but how much "give" there is in the wheel as well as the fragility of the bass still has to be considered. I use one of the less expensive wheels with my Kay because it is a laminated instrument, and while the wheel has some softness to absorb shock, the bass can take the vibration. My carved bass is more fragile and would call for the Gaines' pneumatic wheel, as it offers more shock absorption. Regardless, it's usually best to lift your instrument over rougher surfaces that might transmit too much shock. Please, don't jump the curb!

Using:
I like aligning my wheel so my bass rolls sideways-- I lean the bass shoulder into my right shoulder, reach over to grab the case handle or upper bout, and roll forward. You'll get the hang of steering in no time (people usually get out of the way when they see it coming, so who cares?)

Bass Wheel Alternatives:
There are some basses that cannot effectively use an endpin wheel. For instance, some endpins use a retainer thumbscrew that doesn't simply "jut against" the endpin, but rather tightens a collar around the entire endpin. Since this type does not press directly against the flat spot on the wheel's shaft, it cannot prevent the wheel from rotating. This is a bad thing; imagine walking at a good clip, and suddenly the wheel flips sideways. Not good. You might also have a non-removable endpin, or a solid wood non-adjustable one.

Don't worry, there is an option for you: The Bass Buggie (link below) is a small two-wheeled "cart" of sorts that quickly straps onto your bass and makes it as easy to "drive" as a hand-truck. It's one of my favorite products, and it solves most of those issues that make a bass wheel impractical or unusable.



Products Related to This FAQ




The Fine Print:

The information contained herein is based on what's in my brain — and/or my observations and opinions from my personal experiences (and those of Bob, before me) — as of this moment today, and is subject to change. I'm sure that a great deal more information and detail could be added — but the intent of these writings is to present easily understood, quick FAQs, to address common questions and improve the reader's general knowledge.

What's written here is by no means any kind of authoritative absolute answer, for I am not the world's greatest authority on bass (not even close), or on much of anything else, for that matter. So, by all means, get a second opinion, and know that all the information provided here is for general informational purposes only. I am not providing professional advice; be aware that, where applicable, any information acted upon is at your own risk.

I simply and sincerely hope the information and opinions here are helpful to you on your quest for knowledge about the bass and related subjects... that's the point!

I welcome email with dissenting and additional viewpoints/information/updates that help improve my personal awareness and these content pages. If you have a question that you think belongs here, please let me know.
Mark

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